Brads Electronic Projects Forum

Hello,

Almost a year ago to look to this project, and gradually I've been doing with my free time I have as a hobby, and I find several problems have if I can lend a hand.

I have the assembly like you have your timber and the motor attached, I have made with the circuit board that is on the web, I have the EEPROM programmed by HxD, and PIC16F628A programmed with the program also provided on the web.

The first problem is to use 2 power switches, one for the DC motor (12V) and one for the plate (5v), but when I plug connectors, the engine uses 2.06V 11.3V and the plate so that when food both at the same time, the engine barely turns. The power supply I use is 12V 1A, directly feeding the engine and rectifying the signal to 5V for the board, which is fed by brushes.

The second problem is that when food plate by itself, I understand that the LEDs should already be going on, because I assume that the board provided by you works, but I'm not anything, I have everything connected properly, reviewed, and tested, but not encounter the problem, or do not know where to start when I can think of something.

Have if you can give me some advice and finally get this work I attempt to RGB POV

Thanks.

Do you have a logic probe that you can different parts of the circuit with?

The display won't show anything unless the sensor passes the nail (when the beam is cut) This will send a logic 1 to the microcontroller to tell it to start drawing.

I would check with a logic probe to see that the sensor puts out a logic 0 when the beam has not been cut, and then a logic 1 when it has been cut.

As for the power, you will need two separate power supply's. 12V 1A I don't think will be enough to drive the motor to a high enough speed. The motor will try todraw more current than 1A and so you may burn out your supply.

As for the circuit board power supply, I use a 9volt 1A supply (but you don't need 1A, 500mA would be fine)

Also, to see that the microcontroller is doing anything at all, connect your logic probe to the different port pins and see that you are getting pulses. This will show that something is happenening.

If all else fails, I will be releasing all details of my new one chip POV tomorrow sometime

It also comes with a graphic converter for your pc and will output the code automatically! and there is no need to program an eeprom!

OK, I did not put the sensor, thinking that without him and start to show something, so that when you deploy the sensor gives the signal through RA5, should provide the impetus to start writing. I'll try this week.

The engine is 5,000 rpm, if theoretically to see the POV must go to 25Hz, 25Hz X60s = 1,500 rpm, so I think that with 5,000 rpm, with an adjustable resistance, I will be setting up the sample. Anyway, the engine that has features you use that?

Before addressing the issue of food, first prove the sensor, but what you tell me, instead of using a 7805 for the plate, the better to put a 9V 7809 to send to the plate and go further left?

I see that you are performing a new installation to another without the need for EEPROM chip, and I would like to know if possible, when you are making the "tutorial" to do, and I imagine it is a simpler installation with fewer problems (I think .)

I'll be improving and fixing what you told me, and if I have problems but who can not solve and communicate what you have here if I can help.

Thanks.

Hi again,

I have uploaded the new one chip pov. Have a look at it here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/The-One ... ith-conve/

Hello again,

After watching and reviewing over and over again the circuit, I have concluded that the circuit provided is the same as shown in the photos of Dai Omie, and I've noticed that the layout provided is the same the photography circuit where the problem lies in the output of the LED latch that is unfinished and problems. Not if you have contact Dai Omie to provide you the correct schema, but still try to fix it by bridges have if I was finally working.

It can be very frustrating to work with these sorts of circuits. Unfortunately I don't have any extra info to give you and I also can't help you out with the circuit in person (unless you could fly to Australia)

Have you seen the one chip pov? it is alot simpler!

Hello,

I commented on but only you know, since I have seen the explanation of 8x85 in various forums and websites, to find out about these by offering a bad circuit, when theoretically would copy it, program it and then we each would work to gauge the speed sampling and rotation, nothing more, and although I would like to visit Australia for work and other reasons I can not right now

I've seen some your mount with 1 chip and if that seems more simple, although I see your ride some of SMD, but I have not seen any videos like the 8x85 in operation, so before you start buying components and assembling I wonder if "intrsuctables" there is everything necessary to make it work, as a circuit, program, etc ... I have been reading you have to pay about 2 € for the PRO account so you have total access to information.

Thanks again.

You should be able to access all information on instructables without being a pro member. I just don't think you can display it all on one page.

All the downloads should be there for you though.

Brad has convinced me, I dropped the schema and is far simpler than the 8x85, but before you start purchasing components and the montage, I would like to know:

- What is it and for serving the "Hall effect sensor ", but if it enters the MCLR must be a pulse generator or something? or is it to send the write signal to the PIC by the magnet?

- I see your ride plate is very long, that is to do well the counter? because the previous one did, the circuit was not going very small and put a metal weight to level well, to know if you have a mechanical reason I should know.

- Finally, my controller will not detect the PIC18f4680 me, and do not quite understand much the operation of PIC Programmer. I saw you leave 5 pins next to the hall effect sensor, so I imagine that is where you connect the PIC Programmer apparatus directly to the plate, and this USB to PC. If so, which connect these 5 pins? I have not been able to see the explanation if any, and neither the shematic see because I only see the legs of RC free, if I could clarify I would be very helpful.

Thanks again, and for responding so quickly

Here's all the info that you need to build it

http://www.instructables.com/id/The-One ... Downloads/

If you follow the instructable then you should be fine.

- I see your ride plate is very long, that is to do well the counter? because the previous one did, the circuit was not going very small and put a metal weight to level well, to know if you have a mechanical reason I should know.

I am not sure what you mean by the above quote. Could you explain a little more?

- What is it and for serving the "Hall effect sensor ", but if it enters the MCLR must be a pulse generator or something? or is it to send the write signal to the PIC by the magnet?

The hall effect sensor and magnet is there for position sensing so that the display will always draw from the same place.

- Finally, my controller will not detect the PIC18f4680 me, and do not quite understand much the operation of PIC Programmer. I saw you leave 5 pins next to the hall effect sensor, so I imagine that is where you connect the PIC Programmer apparatus directly to the plate, and this USB to PC. If so, which connect these 5 pins? I have not been able to see the explanation if any, and neither the shematic see because I only see the legs of RC free, if I could clarify I would be very helpful.

I am not sure what programmer you have but I highly recommend that you get a pickit2. You can plug the pickit2 straight into the circuit while the microcontroller is still in the circuit.

Some programmers may not support all microcontrollers, but the pickit2 does basically all pic microcontrollers I am quite sure!

The information I received from your instructables project, in that there is no problem as I see that everything is well explained step by step.

What I mentioned is that the circuit is very small, but the plate on which is mounted, the horizontal, is very large. And I wondered if it was some mechanical reason for the counterweight, or is of such size to create a better LED screen.

The imam was not sure of concept, meaning that its behavior is the same as the detector that walked into RA5 withprevious assembly , ok.

PICkit2 is no problem, just wanted to know which pack is necessary, because I've seen several models that are 40-pin PICs programmed, and used in this project is a 40-pin PIC, and found on eBay this model, with costs Shipping and quite fast.

eBay

Thanks.

As for the size of the board attached to the motor, The longer you make this - the bigger your image becomes (because the diameter is larger) So it is up to you how long you would like to make it.

That programmer from ebay is exactly what you want

Hi.

The Hall effect sensor component which I choose not
as I found Hall effect latch, switch, sensor, and most for SMD with 3 legs, and with prices ranging from pennies to $ 10. If you could show me a link to the component that you used some might find one with similar characteristics, because this component I have not at all clear what to buy with confidence.

Thanks

Here is the link to the exact ones that I am using:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... OU:AU:1123

Once I had all the material I assembled it all, the perfect wheel plate, the tension reaches all parts well, but I have emerged a couple of problems.

The first is that the RGB LEDs that I have do not work or I get the feeling they do not work as they should then seek information on their operation, because if the leg active eg green with blue, should the yellow light (green + blue), but it becomes purple? and when combined with red red is always on. As if you could give me as to the hall effect sensor, a link to the component RGB LED you bought, I would be very helpful.

My second question (and hopefully the last as I am about to make it work thanks to you) is that you leave 5 pins header, which I assume must be for the Programmer PICkit 2, but clearly I have not seen an explanation of where to go connected to these pins, and the picture there are so many wires through the plate not see it clearly, and also appears esquepa circuit, so I wonder if those pins are for the programmer and where in the PIC will connected.

Thanks again Brad.